Anecdotal evidence: 3 of the 4 people I've inquired of wear perfume. One friend swears by YSL In Love Again, but I've never noticed her actually wearing it. She's probably hoarding it. Another friend switches between 2 or 3 perfumes (Samsara?) but doesn't seem to wear much these days.
There are certainly a lot of perfume sites though, and some impressive perfume collections out there! I was amused to read one lady's blog entry where her more senior colleague suggested that she wear a more professional perfume for work, so she gave Anna Sui's Secret Wish a try. Her colleague approved of her choice.
I've never yet noticed a scent strip in magazines though. I wonder if they don't use them in Japan?
I have noticed a few people with excessive sillage, but that seems a small percentage considering how many people I pass in my daily commute. I don't believe that any of the 25 or so people on my office floor wear perfume/cologne (3 women, the rest men). In fact, none of the people that I have encountered in my building seem to wear scent. Perhaps it's reserved for dates? I don't remember seeing any perfume ads on TV. There are big print ads in women's magazines though.
At cosme.net, one Japanese equivalent for makeupalley.com, there are 107575 postings about ladies' fragrances. There are 268114 postings about facial lotion, and 140651 about mascara.